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3/26/2017 0 Comments

FLOODS AND YOUR LIVESTOCK

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FLOODS AND YOUR LIVESTOCK
​Floods can impact animal health as well as human health. Make plans for your livestock and horses in the event you will need to evacuate your farm.
Before a Flood •

Maintain an inventory.
□ Keep a current list of all animals on your farm.
□ Include their location and any records of vaccinations, testing and ownership.
• Have identification for all animals.
□ Make sure animals have some form of permanent identification (e.g., ear tags, tattoos).
□ Ensure animals are properly vaccinated before exposure to floodwaters. • Prepare an evacuation kit.
□ Handling equipment (e.g., halters, nose leads)
□ Water, feed, and buckets
□ Medications
□ Tools and supplies needed for manure cleanup
□ Safety and emergency items for your vehicles and trailers
□ Gas powered generators • Make evacuation arrangements.
□ Determine possible evacuation areas – higher elevation, alternate production facilities (e.g., temporary milking parlors).
□ Determine several routes to these locations.
□ Identify alternate water or power sources.
□ Locate and prearrange feed and water delivery, needed equipment (e.g., milking) and services (e.g., milk pickup).
□ Have well maintained backup generators for livestock production operations.
□ Make transport arrangements (e.g., trucks, trailers) with experienced handlers and drivers.
□ Condition animals to being loaded and transported. • Ensure a safe environment.
□ Assess the stability and safety of barns and other structures.
□ Remove dead trees or objects from fields or livestock areas that may serve as potential debris during a flood situation. During a Flood • Be aware animal behavior may change before, during and even after a disaster.
□ If you must evacuate, ensure your family’s safety first
□ If there is time - move or evacuate livestock and horses to higher ground.
AVOID leaving animals behind. □ If there is no other alternative, keep gates or buildings open so they can escape high water.

□ Provide access to safe free-choice food source, clean water and the safest living areas possible.
□ Do not rely on automatic watering systems, because power may be lost.
□ Establish escape routes to safe locations (higher elevation).
□ Place your contact number and the name and number of your veterinarian on the building. After a Flood • Assess your animals and building structures.
□ Survey damage to your barns and other structures; assess the stability and safety.
□ Examine your animals closely; contact your veterinarian if you observe injuries or signs of illness. • Return animals only after the threat has passed and the safety of buildings or the area has been assessed.
□ Release animals in a safe and enclosed area until familiarity of the surroundings can occur. • Provide non-contaminated feed or water.
□ Provide clean, uncontaminated water.
□ Do not feed flood damaged or moldy feed or hay.
□ Do not use any feed or forage that may have been contaminated by chemical or pesticides. • Animal disposal. □ Record any animal deaths.
□ Check with your state or local authorities for proper disposal methods for animal carcasses. • Prevent illness. □ Keep animals away from flood waters which may contain harmful bacteria or chemicals.
​□ Monitor animals daily for signs of illness.
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3/26/2017 32 Comments

Water Damage Restoration & Clean Up Checklist

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Water Damage Restoration & Clean Up Checklist
After the flood waters recede and the clean up has been done, most folks want to get back into their homes or businesses and start rebuilding. The problem is that wood that has been submerged in water has likely absorbed a large amount of water. Rebuilding too quickly after a flood can cause continuing problems such as mold growth, insect infestations, and deterioration of the wood and wall coverings.
Flood waters are not clean water; therefore, most porous building materials must be removed and replaced with new materials.


Caution!
  • Inspect for structural and electrical damage from outside to determine if it is safe to enter.
  • Electrical safety is extremely important in floods. Check for fire hazards and gas leaks. Use battery-powered light sources.
  • Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia or vinegar.
  • Wear sturdy shoes, rubber gloves, and eye protection.
  • Be watchful for fire ants, snakes, or other animals.
  • If mold is present, wear a respirator that can filter spores.
First StepsMake sure that everyone is out of danger of new flood crests, fire, and falling buildings. Assume flood water and flooded materials are contaminated.
1. Flood Insurance Claims
If you have flood insurance, contact your insurance adjuster immediately.
  • Begin cleanup, salvage, and drying as soon as possible. Do not wait for adjuster. Take photos for use as an inventory. All steps suggested on this page can be taken before an adjuster arrives.
  • Clean house so the adjuster can see the damage.
  • Keep damaged materials for proof of loss.
  • Leave a phone number where you can be reached when the adjuster arrives.
  • The adjuster will assess damages to the house. The owner should sign a proof of loss statement. Additional damage can be added when found.
  • Contact governmental offices for information.
2. Electrical Systems
Be sure all electric and gas services are turned off before entering the premises for the first time.
  • Disconnect the main switch and all circuits.
  • Remove covers from all outlets and the fuse or breaker boxes; flush with clean water.
  • Let dry, and spray with contact cleaner/lubricant.
  • Have an electrician check for grounds and other unsafe conditions before reconnecting the system.
3. Food and Water Sanitation
Until your local water company, utility, or public health department declares your water source safe, purify your water, not only for drinking and cooking, but also for washing any part of the body or dishes.
  • Water: Strain water through a clean cloth or filter; then boil water vigorously for a full minute; let cool. If boiling is not possible, use fresh unscented liquid chlorine bleach (8 drops or 1/8 tsp/gallon of clear water; 16 drops or 1/4 tsp/gallon of cloudy water); stir; let stand 30 minutes. Iodine and purification tablets are not recommended.
  • Food: Undamaged, commercially-prepared foods in all-metal cans or retort pouches can be saved if you remove the labels, thoroughly wash the cans, rinse them, and then disinfect them with a sanitizing solution consisting of 1 tablespoon of bleach per gallon of potable water. Finally, re-label containers that had the labels removed, including the expiration date, with a marker.
  • Utensils: Discard flood-contaminated wooden cutting boards and spoons, plastic utensils, baby bottles, nipples, and pacifiers. Thoroughly wash metal and ceramic pans, utensils, and dishes with hot soapy water and sanitize by boiling them in clean water or by immersing them for 15 minutes in a solution of 1 tsp chlorine bleach/quart water.
4. Furnishings and Carpets
Remove all furniture, bedding, and carpeting to outdoors to be cleaned and dried (or discarded).
  • Flooded carpets and rugs are best replaced since flood water may contain contaminants. Flooded carpet pads should always be discarded and replaced.
  • Remove water-logged rugs, carpets, and pads within 48 hours after flooding subsides.
  • If salvage is attempted, spread out rugs and carpets outdoors. Hose off. If soiled, professionally clean or work in carpet shampoo with a broom. Rinse well with a solution of 1 gallon water and 2 tablespoons liquid household chlorine bleach to sanitize (if colorfast). If carpet is wool, do not add bleach.
  • Dry the carpet and subfloor thoroughly as quickly as possible. If carpet is installed damp, it can mildew.
  • Carpet might shrink, but a professional may be able to stretch it.
  • All upholstered furniture and mattresses contaminated by flood water should be discarded. If an upholstered furniture piece is valuable, the stuffing and upholstering will need to be replaced.  Solid wood, metal and plastic furniture may be cleaned and restored.  Hose off any mud, clean, sanitize and let dry completely out of direct sunlight.
5. Walls
Open flooded walls, even if they appear undamaged, to prevent mold, odor, and structural decay later.
  • Remove water from the structure as rapidly as possible. Ventilate.
  • Remove baseboards, and cut holes in wallboard to drain uninsulated walls.
  • Remove the interior surface of insulated walls to a point above water height. Discard flooded drywall.
  • Undamaged paneling may be propped open or reinstalled after cleaning.
  • Remove and discard all wet fibrous insulation.
  • Clean out mud. Wall studs and plates may be sprayed with disinfectant (1 cup bleach/gallon water) to kill any existing mold and fungi.
  • Speed dry with dehumidifiers and fans.
  • Leave walls open until they have thoroughly dried, which may take up to a month.
  • Select replacement materials that will withstand future floods (such as rigid foam insulation, removable wainscoting, ceramic tile, etc.).
Next StepsLong-term flooding or wetness is likely to ruin most interior finishes and contents, but the next steps may be possible when flooding is short term and cleanup begins promptly. Delay permanent repairs until the building is thoroughly dry, which may take weeks.
1. Subfloors
  • Layers of submerged plywood or OSB subfloors will likely separate or swell. Affected sections must be replaced to keep the new floor covering from buckling.
  • When floor coverings are removed, allow the subflooring to dry thoroughly, which may take months without a dehumidifier.
  • Check for warping before installing new flooring.
2. Wood Floors
  • Carefully remove a board every few feet to reduce buckling caused by swelling. If boards are tongue-and-grooved, consult a carpenter or flooring professional.
  • Clean and dry the floor thoroughly, which may take weeks, before replacing boards and attempting repairs.
3. Tile and Sheet Flooring
  • If a submerged wood subfloor swells or separates, flooring will need to be removed. (Asbestos tiles should be removed only by a trained professional.)
  • If the subflooring is concrete, removal of the floor covering will hasten drying of the slab, but it might not be necessary if it would ruin an otherwise unharmed material.
  • If water has seeped under loose sections of sheet flooring, remove the entire sheet. Ease of flooring removal depends on the type of material and adhesive. Contact a reputable dealer to find out what product and technique (if any) will loosen the adhesive.
4. Cleaning Wall Finishes, Woodwork, & Floors
To reduce mold and damage, clean and dry as soon as flood waters recede. Do not sand or scrape lead-based paint.
  • Use a phosphate-free, all-purpose, or disinfecting cleaner. Wash from top to bottom. Rinse with clean water.
  • One-half cup of household chlorine bleach to a gallon of water can be used on nonmetallic, colorfast surfaces as a disinfectant (to kill surface mold and bacteria) after cleaning, but it will not prevent new mold growth on materials that stay damp.
  • Dry thoroughly and quickly. If the utilities are on, use the air conditioning or heater, fans, and a dehumidifier or desiccants to speed drying.
5. Appliances and Equipment
Clean and dry the submerged household appliance before starting.
  • With the electricity or fuel turned off, unplug and open as much as possible to rinse or wipe clean and let dry.
  • Tilt to drain and aid quick drying. Three days to a week is necessary for drying.
  • Appliance repair professionals should inspect before reconnecting. Many appliances can be saved.
6. Furniture
Take furniture outdoors to clean.
  • Brush off mud. All parts (drawers, doors, etc.) should be removed. Remove or cut a hole in the back to push out stuck drawers and doors. Discard flooded padding.
  • Use commercial furniture-cleaning products designed for the type of material. Do not refinish or wax until thoroughly dry.
  • Dry slowly out of direct sunlight because sun will warp furniture. It may take several weeks to several months to dry.
7. Preventing Mold
Aggressively control mold in the weeks and months after the flood.
  • When power is available, continuously use air conditioning (or heat in winter) plus a dehumidifier, if possible, to remove humidity.
  • In an unair-conditioned home, open windows and use fans to circulate air.
  • Turn on electric lights in closets, and leave doors open to facilitate drying.
  • Try to reduce activities that add moisture to the indoor air, and use exhaust fans when cooking and bathing.
8. Removing Mildew from Household Articles and Upholstery
Avoid disturbing and spreading mold spores indoors. Clean mildewed items outdoors. Learn and take precautions to minimize exposure to mold. 
  • Use a HEPA vacuum, if available, to remove visible mold growth. Discard the vacuum bag. Otherwise, wipe with damp paper towels, discard, and seal in plastic bags.
  • Dry items in the sun, if possible.
  • Sponge any remaining mildew with thick suds or a commercial cleaner designed for the type of material.
  • Wipe with a clean, barely damp cloth.
  • Wipe mildew-stained areas with a cloth dampened with diluted alcohol (1 cup rubbing or denatured alcohol to 1 cup water). Dry thoroughly.
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3/26/2017 1 Comment

Flash Flood Safety: 5 Must-Ask Questions

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Flash Flood Safety: 5 Must-Ask Questions
​Every year, flash floods claim more lives in the United States than any other weather-related incident. The most common mistake is attempting to drive through a flooded area after a flood -- many drivers assume the waters are shallow enough to navigate. Travelers also encounter flash floods while camping or hiking in national parks and just about any other terrain with topography that includes hills, mountains, valleys, creeks and rivers.

Weather experts describe flash floods as “more water than you want in less time than you have.” Personal safety risks from flash floods can be minimized and avoided with smart planning. Here are 5 questions to ask in advance of a trip that will help travelers prepare for a flash flood.

1. Is an area flood-prone? Before setting up a campsite, pay attention to flash flood warning signs but don’t count on those signs to always be there. A deadly flash flood in June 2010 at Camp Albert Pike Recreation Area, a campground in Arkansas near the banks of the Little Missouri River, shows why due diligence is important. The area had experienced at least 10 river floods over the past 7 decades, yet no warning posters were present in the area. Don’t just rely on signs. Inquire with a campground office about an area’s flood history. When setting up a campsite, look for evidence of past floods, such as large logs littering a creek or riverbed and high-water marks on river banks and trees. Signs of past flooding in a canyon include water stains on canyon walls and debris hanging from bushes and low branches.

2. Does the weather report call for a flood watch? Check the weather forecast before a hike or a camp outing. If a flood watch is in effect, potential exists for heavy rains to create flash flooding within 6 to 24 hours. Postponing a trip a day or 2 could save a life. When hiking in the West, pay particular attention to weather reports from July to mid-September. That’s when severe thunderstorms are most likely to develop quickly. Finally, if visiting a flood-prone city, “on the ground” weather reports are available from the local convention and visitor’s bureau.

3. Does the area have cell phone or radio towers? Know the risks of camping in remote areas without access to a cell phone or radio. Roughly 75% of flash flood fatalities occur at night, when rapidly rising water is more difficult to detect. A weather radio that can broadcast weather alerts is essential. Such websites as CellReception offer details on cell phone coverage within national parks. Also call the campgrounds to ask if it is located close to a radio tower (the Albert Pike campground was not close to a tower).

4. When should you avoid driving in a flood? If you notice while driving during a storm that the middle line on the road is no longer visible, heed this advice from the National Weather Service. “Turn around, don’t drown.” Just six inches of water is enough to lift a vehicle off the ground. If you are caught in rising water, abandon the vehicle and seek higher ground. If you are trapped, wait until the car partially fills with water. Doors locked from water pressure should open once the water pressure is the same on both sides of the door. Also, press your feet against the windshield, which should then pop off. Finally, never drive around a “Road Closed” sign. It’s closed for a reason.

5. Have you formulated an evacuation plan? As a record-breaking flash flood in 2010 in Nashville, Tennessee proved, travelers don’t need to be in rural areas to encounter a flash flood. Before booking a hotel room, ask if the hotel has an evacuation plan (such as a makeshift shelter), as well as back-up generators. “Have a list of phone numbers and websites handy for the local convention and visitor’s bureau and office of emergency management,” says Butch Spyridon, president of the Nashville Convention and Visitors Bureau. “If you’re driving, be prepared to fill up your gas tank when you arrive at your destination -- don’t wait until you’re leaving town.”

Whether you’re set to embark on a hike, camp outing or long-distance drive, staying vigilant -- and recognizing the signs of a flash flood -- should keep you safe and dry.
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3/26/2017 0 Comments

The Ultimate Guide to Hurricane Facts, Information & Resources

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The Ultimate Guide to Hurricane Facts, Information & Resources
What Is a Hurricane?A hurricane is a kind of tropical cyclone that includes organized thunder storms but no fronts. (Fronts are two air masses of different densities, such as cold fronts and warm fronts.) Tropical cyclones are measured in escalating degrees: When the winds in a cyclone are below 39 mph, it is considered a tropical depression. When the maximum sustained winds in a tropical cyclone reach 39 mph, it graduates to a tropical storm. Finally, when those winds sustain 74 mph or higher, the cyclone graduates further to a hurricane.
Hurricanes are not the same thing as tornadoes. Many people falsely believe that hurricanes are simply tornadoes forming over the ocean. In fact, the only thing the two have in common is that they are both swirling, destructive columns of air. The main differences between hurricanes and tornadoes are:
  • Hurricanes can grow to be several hundred miles wide while tornadoes generally grow only a quarter mile wide.
  • Hurricanes form over warm water in tropical oceans, developing far from the jet stream. Tornadoes form within storms over land — developing very close to the jet stream.
  • Hurricanes can last as long as three weeks, while tornadoes last only about an hour.
  • Hurricane winds usually clock in at less than 180 mph. Tornadoes can reach 300 mph.
  • On average, about 10 hurricanes occur per year in the Atlantic Ocean, while the United States sees about 800 to 1,000 tornadoes per year.
  • Typically, we’re warned several days in advance of an approaching hurricane, while we’re warned of a tornado no more than 15 to 30 minutes in advance.
Hurricanes form when low-pressure systems evaporate water from the ocean. As the vapor rises, it is normally carried away by winds. When no winds are present to carry the vapor away, it begins to spiral inwards on itself and forms a hurricane. As it spirals inward, it forms its own wind to draw up more vapor and send it inwards. (If they were near the jet stream, the winds would carry the vapor away and prevent the hurricane from forming.)

​Hurricane Damage ScaleHurricanes, like tornadoes, are defined by categories on the “Saffir-Simpson scale.” This scale measures the potential for damage caused by hurricanes, based on the strength of the sustained winds. (Sustained winds are those that last one minute or more.)
  • Category 1 – Sustained winds of 74 to 95 mph. Minimal damage (shrubs, branches, unanchored mobile homes)
  • Category 2 – Sustained winds of 96 to 110 mph. Moderate damage (trees, mobile homes, poorly constructed buildings)
  • Category 3 – Sustained winds of 111 to 130 mph. Extensive damage (large trees down, small buildings damaged, mobile homes destroyed)
  • Category 4 – Sustained winds of 131 to 155 mph. Extreme damage (exterior walls of buildings, roof failure on small buildings, doors and windows damaged extensively)
  • Category 5 – Sustained winds greater than 155 mph (like during Hurricane Katrina. Catastrophic damage (roof failure on many buildings, some buildings may be completely destroyed)
The Saffir-Simpson scale measures the potential damage from the hurricane itself. It does not measure potential damage from the storm surges, rain and other hazards that may accompany hurricanes. This is because such things are difficult to account for, although scientists and meteorologists are working to create a more detailed hurricane rating system.

Interesting Hurricane Facts
  • Hurricanes can unload 2.4 trillion gallons of rainwater each day.
  • In the Atlantic, hurricane season starts on June 1. In the Pacific, it starts on May 15. Both seasons end on November 30.
  • 40 percent of the hurricanes in the United States hit Florida.
  • Hurricanes can grow to be 400 to 500 miles across with an eye of 20 miles across.
  • Many hurricanes cause severe flooding. This flooding is responsible for 90 percent of the deaths caused by hurricanes.
  • Thunderstorms within hurricanes can turn into tornadoes.
  • Hurricane, cyclone and typhoon all mean the same thing. The name simply tells where it formed. Hurricanes form over the North Atlantic or Caribbean, typhoons form over the western part of the Pacific Ocean, and cyclones form over the Indian Ocean.
  • Hurricanes were first named by an Australian weatherman in the 19th century. Clement “Wet” Wragge would name violent storms after people he disliked.
  • Hurricane Ginger, North Carolina in 1971, lasted for three weeks.
  • Hurricanes didn’t start getting male names until 1979.
  • Particularly devastating hurricanes have their names “retired” from the list of names. For example, there will never be another hurricane named “Katrina.”
  • The flexible trunk of the palm tree is thought to be an evolutionary step for the plants to bend in hurricane winds without breaking.
What to Do Before, During and After a Hurricane The best way to survive a hurricane is to be prepared. Many organizations, such as FEMA, offer tips and information on how to prepare yourself and your family for the event of a hurricane. It’s best to educate yourself is long before the hint of a hurricane. There will be no time to sort it out after you’ve gotten the warning.
  • Before
  • During
  • After
  • Identify the elevation of your property and learn whether or not it is flood-prone. This will tell you how your property might be affected during a storm surge or flooding.
  • Learn where levees and dams are in your area, and understand how they might affect your property during a hurricane.
  • Assemble emergency kits for each member of your family, taking into account special needs for infants, the elderly or the infirm or handicapped. Also consider your pets’ needs.
  • Learn the evacuation routes out of town and know how to get to higher ground.
  • Establish an after-storm meeting place in case your family is not all together when it hits. Agree on a few of alternate meeting places in case one or more is inaccessible or unsafe.
  • Make your home resistant to storms by installing storm windows and doors, reinforcing your garage door, and adding straps or clips to help keep your roof attached to your house.
  • Keep trees and shrubs trimmed to reduce wind resistance.
  • If a hurricane is imminent, bring in all outdoor furniture, garbage cans and yard decorations. These can fly loose and cause serious injury or damage to yourself, your home and others.
  • Make sure your rain gutters and downspouts are clean and in good repair.
  • If you own a boat, make plans to secure it.
  • Install a generator.
  • Consider building a safe room or storm shelter — an interior room without windows — where your family can hunker down.
  • If you live in a high-rise, know where to take shelter on the lower floors. Winds increase in intensity at higher elevations, so get to the lowest floor you can, but be mindful of the possibility of flooding and try to stay above that level. Generally, this will be below the 10th floor but above the 2nd.
When a hurricane is imminent, you may wonder whether you should evacuate. You should evacuate if:
  • You live in a mobile home
  • You live near a body of water or on a floodplain
  • The authorities advise you to evacuate
If you are not evacuating, be sure to do the following:
  • Secure storm windows and doors.
  • Close blinds and curtains and otherwise block windows to hamper flying glass in case of breakage from winds or flying debris.
  • Listen to the radio or TV for instructions and advisories.
  • Turn off propane tanks.
  • Turn off utilities if you are instructed to do so. If utilities are to be left on, set your refrigerator thermostat to its lowest setting. This will help preserve food longer if the power goes out.
  • Fill bathtubs and sinks with water to ensure a clean supply for drinking or for hygiene.
  • Avoid using the phone except for genuine emergencies. Emergency personnel will need the lines free so they can communicate with each other to save people.
  • Stay indoors, avoiding windows and glass doors.
  • Secure and brace exterior doors and close all interior doors.
  • Get into a small interior room using anything you can as a shield, such as tables, mattresses and anything else that might deflect or absorb the impact of flying debris.
  • Do not use elevators.
It’s not necessarily over when the winds stop blowing. You’ll still need to take steps to ensure your safety after a hurricane.
  • Continue listening to the radio for updates and other advisories.
  • Stay alert for reports on flooding and extended rainfall.
  • If you are separated from your family, go to an agreed on meeting place or to a Red Cross shelter.
  • If you have evacuated, return home only when the authorities say it is safe. If you have long-term housing needs, contact FEMA.
  • Drive only if necessary and avoid flooded roads even if they look slow-moving or shallow. There can be strong currents and heavy debris just below the surface.
  • Avoid loose or dangling power lines. Report them if possible.
  • Before entering your house, walk around and inspect it for gas leaks, loose power lines and structural damage. It may not be safe to enter.
  • If you smell gas, or if there are flood waters, do not go into your house.
  • Use battery powered flashlights, turning them on before entering the building. (Activating a flashlight may throw a tiny spark from the batteries that could ignite any leaking gas.)
  • Keep your pets under control and be aware of any wild animals that may roam into an area. If you have to reach into a debris pile, poke around with a stick to discover snakes or other animals that may be sheltering there.
  • Avoid tap water until you’re sure it’s not contaminated.
  • Wear protective clothing. Any water you may come in contact with could be contaminated, and open wounds will become infected.
  • Never use a generator in an enclosed space. Carbon monoxide can build up faster than it can be ventilated, and it can linger long after the generator has been shut off.
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